VANQUISH RC YETI XL FULL

I trimmed a few mm off to get the shock to bottom out where I wanted them to. I recently commented on a RCNetwork youtube video where they were espousing the wonders of the powerstrokes, and I pointed out how the primary springs were flattened, even without the battery and body on the truck, and he agreed that proline's spring rates were too low, that he would get back to me, and then he removed my comment.Īs for longer rod ends, I use the RC4WD part number Z-S0403 on the factory shocks. ProTek RC 4mm Aluminum Short Clamping Servo Horn (Black) (25T) 1 review. However I run a stock shock tower.ĭid you get the spring rates on the powerstrokes sorted out? In every picture I see, like the one above, with the powerstrokes on the Yeti, the primary springs are squashed flat. Axial AM55 540 Rock Crawler Electric Motor 55T. I found the 90mm spring still needed to be compressed a good amount. Spring wise I run the 100mm red spring/ with a red top. Ive been running run Baja Rey bump stops as well as I unthread the rod end about 2-3 turns to tune for the perfect amount of droop/bump.

VANQUISH RC YETI XL FULL

The Long rod end will allow for full droop as well, and less chassis slap (in the front). You'll have to buy the proline rebuild kit to get the long ends. It is a work of art! Should really add some much needed protection to the front of our basher/U4 Yeti! Cant say enough.On the yeti front, I run the 90mm slashes, I put the 'long' rod end on to clearance the dogbone/ shock spring cup(it effectively raises the cup). We told him we were doing a Yeti build and he jumped on it and ship this bumper out. The Wertymade bumper is great! We were contacted by Werty to see if we would be interested in their items. Then, what better way to wrap up the front end? Why, add a Wertymade front bumper! To check out our review of the Yeti XL Click Here. The first run of these sold out almost immediately so keep an eye out Here if you’re looking for a set. This allowed the steering to flow much better. 1pc Vanquish Logo Diff Cover-1pc Bearing Spacer-1pc Axle-2pc 6802-2RS Fast Eddy Bearing-2pcs Bearing Insert-4pcs M3 x 0.5 x SHCS 6mm-4pcs M3 x 0.5 x SHCS 10mm-4pcs M2.5 x 0.45 BHCS 6mm. The Yeti is a strong basher when set up right and it can handle rocks as needed but I wouldn't buy it for the sole purpose of crawling. It's closer defined as a rock bouncer but you would be better off looking other platforms to crawl with. Also, the addition of the Double Sheer, it replaced the plastic bushings with bearings. Re: Yeti crawler As Ty has pointed out, the Yeti is not a crawler. This added quite a bit of strength to the steering. So, we added the VP Steering Rack and also the VP Double Sheer Steering Rack Kit! So, perfect time to fix the sloppy steering. Then, if you have ever took the front of the Yeti apart, you know you cant just take one thing apart, you have to take the entire front end apart almost! LOL. If you dont swap them, your front and rear will turn in opposite directions. Why? Because the R&P in the rear is on one side and the front, they are opposite. Since we added the VP Currie rear, we have to flip the front diff. That way, we can see what our changes are doing to the handling of the rig. I couldn't think of a better place to expose this rare find. So, the rear at this point is not 100% but ready for some testing before we keep making changes. Hi folks I'm new here to making posts, but I have been getting ideas and help from this forum for years now. I also grabbed a STRC (yes we are a dealer for them as well) Rear link mounts as well! Axial Yeti XL, T-Bone Racing Skid plates and bumper, Vanquish rear aluminum axle housing, Hot Racing aluminum suspension and steering, GPM A-Arms, Using 4S a. I took a stroll over to our Yeti accessories.

While we were back there, we also took the opportunity to address the rear links as well!

Vanquish rc yeti xl